Sewin or sea trout (salmo trutta)

Sewin is related to the brown trout, but takes to the sea to feed in the rich waters of the Bristol Channel and Irish Sea. Here it can grow at an amazing rate, returning after a year to weigh 1 - 2 kilos; after two years it can weigh over four. It returns to the river during late April, May, June and July and will spend several months developing its roe (and milt) before spawning in the late autumn and winter. It is in best condition in the spring, as a 'fresh run' fish, unlike many sea fish that are spawning at this time. As the roe develops the quality of the flesh deteriorates, becoming less palatable by the autumn.

The average size of sewin is 1.25 - 2 kilos (2.5 to 4.5lbs). The flesh of sewin is pink with a high oil content. It is very distinctively paler than salmon, particularly farmed salmon. Sewin can be cooked the same way as salmon, either poached or baked whole, cut into 'darnes' or cutlets through the backbone, or into 'dalles' from fillets taken from the length of the fish. These portions can be poached, grilled, fried or baked. A sauce with sewin should be delicate, as the fish has a light flavour and most succulent texture. (see recipe). Sewin can also be smoked most successfully and served as smoked salmon.

The whole fish can be distinguished from salmon generally by size, the more prolific spots, and a less-forked tail. Larger fish can appear very similar to salmon, but the scale count from the adipose fin (the soft fin towards the tail) to the lateral line is 10 - 12 for a salmon and 13 - 16 for sewin.

Sewin have been farmed successfully on the waters of Milford Haven, and (as with salmon) they are perhaps not considered as fine as fresh run wild fish. But the quality achieved has been very high and it could become an important source of supply in the future. Currently it has been a successful way of feeding the local seal population in the Haven.

The Atlantic salmon (salmo salar)

A fresh run salmon that has just returned from the sea to its natal river is perhaps one of the most beautiful fish of all. Atlantic salmon feed in Arctic waters and grow at an immense rate. After three years at sea it can weigh 10 - 15 kilos on returning to rivers. The Wye was the most notable river for great spring fish of this size. Sadly a whole combination of factors from fishing on the high seas through the cycle to the loss of spawning grounds high in the Welsh mountains has led to the decline of the great spring fish, and all runs of salmon in Welsh rivers.

Most Welsh rivers have runs of salmon, particularly in the late spring, summer, and autumn, depending on the rainfall to give river levels sufficient for fish to run. The average size is from 3 - 5 kilos, though larger fish are caught. Salmon and sewin are caught by licensed net fishermen in river estuaries, and the traditional coracles are still used on some rivers, particularly the Towy and Teifi. Anglers also catch salmon on the 'beats' of known rivers, and this is an important tourism recreation.

Salmon cooked whole makes a magnificent centrepiece for a buffet or banquet. Otherwise it is prepared into cutlets or fillets for individual portions. The whole sides of a large salmon make the most perfect fish for smoking. Cold-smoked salmon, sliced thinly is a great delicacy, and even that from farmed fish, though inexpensive has a high gastronomic cache.

Salmon is not farmed in Welsh waters, but all fishmongers and supermarkets obtain plentiful supplies of fish from farms in Scotland. Though not considered as fine in flavour or texture as wild fish it can be used in any recipe for salmon or sewin.

There are several land based fresh water trout farms rearing rainbow trout (salmo gairdneri), fish native to North America. Abundant supplies of clean, natural water enables fine quality fish to be produced. They may be reared for re-stocking lakes and rivers, or for the food market. The latter can be purchased as whole fish, fillets or similarly smoked.

Carmarthen Market and Swansea Market
The largest retail sources in South Wales.
Raymond Rees, Fishmonger, Carmarthen Market is the Chairman of the Coracle Fishermen's Association.
Tel: 01267 234144

Swansea Market
Coakley Green, Fishermonger.
Tel 01792 653416

Tuckers, Fishmongers.
Tel: 01792 652277

Cardiff Market
Ashtons Fishmonger
Tel: 029 2022 9201

North Wales
The Fish Shop, Builder Street, Llandudno
Tel 01492 870430

Wholesale
Vin Sullival Ltd, Blaenavon, Gwent
Tel 01495 792792
Fax 01495792277
Email: sales@vinsullfoods.fsbusiness.co.uk

Fish Farms
Haven Harvest Ltd, Edwards Pill, Llangwm, Pembrokeshire
Tel: 01646 684137
Email: havenharvest@breathemail.net

Pembroke Fish Farms, Orielton Mill, Hudleton, Penbroke
Tel: 01646 661393
Email: orieltonmill@farmersweekly.net

Teifi Valley Fish Farms,
Llanybydder,
Carmarthenshire
Tel: 01597 480789

Old Forge Trout Farm, Bodfari, Nr Denbigh Tel: 01745 710305
Email: scott.davidson@talk21.com
www.welshtrout.com

Recipe

Pan baked sewin with leek and beurre blanc sauce.

Fillets or cutlets of sewin can be used. The recipe is adaptable for salmon and other larger fish.

Ingredients

4 cutlets of sewin about 150g each
25g oil and butter
300g young leeks, trimmed, washed
Halen Mon salt and freshly milled pepper

Sauce
50g shallots finely diced
300ml dry white Welsh wine as Cariad, Panteg or Glyndwr
25ml white wine vinegar
6 white peppercorns, crushed
200g unsalted Welsh butter
Juice half a lemon
Dash cayenne pepper

Method

First prepare the sauce by simmering shallots, wine, peppercorns and vinegar in an enamel or good stainless pan slowly for 30 to 40 minutes until most of the juice has evaporated. Top up with a little more wine of necessary. Cut butter into 2cm pieces and leave to soften. Sieve of the shallots pressing down well to leave about 2 dessertspoons of liquid, then return to the pan and over a low to medium heat whisk in the butter, piece by piece, allowing each to absorb before adding the next. The sauce should have a creamy texture. Remove from heat, whisk in the lemon and cayenne and cover to keep warm on the side of cooker or hot cupboard.

Dice the whites of the leeks finely and the green a little coarser. Cook both separately in the microwave or in a little oil and butter in a covered pan. Add a third of the beurre blanc to the whites and keep warm.

To cook the fish - use a shallow pan with a lid to take the 4 pieces of fish with space around them, about 2 - 3 cms, for the heat to develop. On a medium heat melt butter in oil, then add the fish and cook uncovered for 1 - 2 minutes depending on the thickness of the cutlets or fillets. Using a fish slice carefully turn the pieces, season with a little salt and pepper, cover the pan and cook for a further minute then switch off heat, and leave for 1 - 2 minutes longer. Remove fish and keep warm. Put green of leeks into pan and heat through quickly in the juices. Spoon into the centre of four hot plates and put a piece of sewin onto each. Top with a little beurre blanc with the white of leeks, then serve remaining sauce on the side. New potatoes make a perfect accompaniment.

Cheese of the Month

Celtic Promise or Saval, Teifi Farmhouse Cheeses

The warmth of spring actuates rapid growth of vegetation, giving a bounty of nourishing feed for many wild and domesticated animals. Snow-white spring lambs in the green pastures can gorge on grasses and weeds, inducing the sweetest flavour to the young meat. Cattle graze the fresh growth giving a richness to the milk that in turn makes beautiful dairy products, particularly the farmhouse cheeses now made in many areas of West Wales.

Teifi farmhouse Cheeses was established in 1982 by John and Patrice Savage-Onstwedder. They are true artisan cheesemakers who make a whole range of unpasteurised cheeses from hard to soft cheeses. Most of their cheeses have a rich, creamy texture and a wide range of flavours influenced by the complexity of the milk thanks to the richness of the soil and variety of grasses, flowers and herbs that grow in the meadows and surrounding hedges.

Celtic Promise is a semi soft cheese made in 500g rounds, or in 2 kilo rounds called Saval. The cheese is unpressed and when the rind begins to form it is washed twice weekly in a bacterium solution to develop its flavour and keep the texture soft and creamy. The process continues for six weeks during which time the protein on the skin breaks down and it develops to an orange colour, while the cheese ripens and flavour deepens. It is on the style of a French Munster, Port Salut or Pont L'Eveque, or an English Stinking Bishop. But the raw, un-pasturised milk gives a particularly distinctive flavour to Celtic Promise.

Celtic Promise and Saval can best be described as rich, mildly piquant, perhaps a little raunchy, yet without too much acidity. Though once packaged the bacterium influence retards, it will continue to mature for several weeks further.

It is the only Welsh cheese to have been awarded the prestigious title of Supreme Champion at the British Cheese Awards (1998). For three years in succession it has been judged the best semi soft cheese at these awards.

Availability - At most good cheese shops throughout the UK and from their own stall in Camarthen Market on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. Open to the public from Monday to Saturday 9.00-17.00 cheese and butter can be brought in the farm shop.

Teifi Farmhouse Cheese
Glynhynod,
Ffostrasol,
Llandysul,
Ceredigion,
SA44 5JY
Telephone / Fax: 01239 851528